Wednesday, March 5, 2014

It’s an eatery! It’s an art show! It’s Proof on Main!

Proof on Main perfects the art of fancy farm dining
LEOs Eats with Robin Garr

Acorn squash risotto at Proof.
LEO photo by Frankie Steele.
What the Flock?! No, that’s not a question. It’s a title, the moniker artist Johnston Foster bestowed on the “site-specific installation” (you or I might call it a “sculpture show”) that, since 2012, has filled the overhead space in Proof on Main with a squadron of exploding seagulls.

Let’s face it, Proof on Main is that kind of place. It’s housed in the trendy confines of Louisville’s much applauded 21c Museum Hotel, which includes the word “museum” in its name with good reason: The place is loaded with wacky yet meaningful art that incorporates everything from its signature red penguins to the giant golden replica of Michelangelo’s “David” out front to, well, exploding gulls.

Proof has been a hit since its arrival in 2006, although I was never quite persuaded by its odd mix of yupped-up “Southern” fare with trendy “Tuscan”- cuisines so disparate that they went together, for me, like WD-40 and water.

But since Chef Levon Wallace arrived in 2012 (around the same time the exploding gulls landed, which is probably just a coincidence), that odd blend of accents seems muted, giving way to a more internationally inspired bill of fare that plays creative riffs on mostly locavore meat, produce and poultry.

Read my full review on LouisvilleHotBytes, or click to it in this week's LEO Weekly.